🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.